Sport Climbing →

I have two bolts to make an anchor. Is it okay to just use quickdraws?


Yes. If this is a single pitch sport climb and the gear isn't being loaded over an edge, it's okay to use two quickdraws with the gates opposing each other.

It doesn't really matter, but if the bolts are aligned horizontally, try to use quickdraws that are the same length so that the forces are better distributed.

If the bolts are stacked vertically, it's likely they are connected with a length of chain and a ring (this is the so-called "Euro anchor"), and here — as long as the fixed hardware is in good condition — it's okay to just run the rope through one locker attached at the ring. The chain connecting the two bolts provides the necessary redundancy and, while the ring and locking carabiner are single points of failure, their strength ratings are considered high enough that most climbers wouldn't worry about it.

Note: If the bolts are on top of the cliff edge, you'll probably want to use thick cord or nylon webbing and make a more conservative anchor that repositions the master point on the cliff face. This is a common scenario for climbs that are accessed from above (e.g. seacliffs).


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