Rappelling →

What do I do if I forget or drop my rappel device?

To get down you have two good options and a few mediocre ones:

Good options:

  1. If you have a GriGri or other similar assisted braking device, do a single strand rappel using the biner-block (Reepschnur) method.

  2. Rappel with a Munter hitch using both strands of the rope.

Less good options:

  1. Have your climbing partner lower you down the pitch. If there are multiple rappels involved or communication is difficult, this is not a good choice. Your partner may be unable to place you at the next rap station and there's a chance of getting stranded.

  2. Use a carabiner brake rappel. This option is finicky to setup and — to really work as you'd like — requires an arsenal of oval carabiners that you're probably not carrying.

  3. Down jumar the pitch using prussiks. This takes forever.

  4. Use a dulfersitz rappel. This is your last ditch option if you don't have any carabiners.

Practice all these methods before you ever have to use them.

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