What's a headpoint?

Prior to leading the route, the climber rehearses the movement on top rope and finds any possible gear placements. The subsequent redpoint attempt is then called a headpoint, with the important distinction that a fall could put the climber in the hospital.

Routes that are headpointed are generally R or X rated climbs. The headpoint tradition is stronger on English gritstone than anywhere else.

Web References

1. http://www.rockclimbing.com/forum/Climbing_Information_C2/General_F23/Head_point_P138850/
2. http://kevinthaw.kahrlconsulting.com/Misc/Headpointing.htm